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REVIEW: Hellenic Goes Bigger Than Ever, With Highs, Misses, and Promise

Hellenic {Photos by Han Okcuoglu}

Hellenic is back again for a third time and literally bigger than ever. Nikol Zarbalas finally found a space triple the size of the last one in Coral Springs, which is a bit poetic considering the size of some portions.

What struck us immediately was how big and open it felt. Warm lighting and raised, exposed ceilings contrasted nicely with antique furniture, books, and mirrors adorning the walls. Quite a unique aesthetic. This was not intimate dining. The two of us were seated at one of the large round or rectangular tables. It almost felt like a family food hall, which I actually enjoyed.

3-Dip Sampler

We had quite an appetite, so we ordered too much. We started with the 3-dip sampler ($15.00), which lets you choose any 3 dips from about 10 options. The pita bread itself was nothing to write home about, but plentiful. The Melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant, herbs, and garlic) and Skordalia (creamy mashed potatoes with citrus and garlic) were both outstanding. There should be a capital “G” on Garlic in their description because it had a lot. The burst of citrus on both was refreshing. The pesto hummus was even better. Smooth, balanced, and nutty.

Saganaki.

I would skip the Saganaki ($16.00) unless it improves. They forgot the flames; it definitely needed a bit of lemon and some goeyness that was lacking. The cheese’s bitterness was a bit overpowering without the right texture, and it fell flat.

The Halloumi Fries ($12.00) were addictive. They can be grilled, but we ordered the traditional panko crust, which was perfect. They gave us a side of proprietary Hellenic sauce of ketchup, mustard, vinegar, herbs, and a dash of honey. It’s on the sweeter side, so it may not be for everyone.

Halloumi Fries

The Greek salad ($17.00 – $20.00), depending on your choice of protein. I wouldn’t order again. I definitely prefer my salads being premixed before they’re brought out, but the balsamic dressing was at least above average. The braised lamb (extra $8 upcharge) we chose was moist and slow-cooked, and the portion was generous. It was definitely worth the upcharge.

Lamb Burger with lemon potatoes

The Lamb Burger ($22.00) was a holdover, like many items from the restaurant’s previous iteration. A flavorful beefteki patty with melted cheese, onions, pickles, and Hellenic Sauce on a buttery brioche bun. Add another generous portion of braised lamb, and it’s easy to see why this was featured on the Food Network. It’s quite a mouthful. The Hellenic Fries would have been a tiny bit crispier, but it’s a pleasing flavor bomb of salty feta and oregano.

Greek restaurants like Ethos are very good in their own right, but if I had never been there before, I would still have guessed it was part of a chain. Minus some misfires, overall, Hellenic feels like a distinctive chef-driven concept that finally found the space it needed to grow its customer base and its menu.

Now the service was all over the place. The wrong food was brought to our table multiple times. We didn’t have any plates. To be fair, they had opened very recently. Everything is totally forgivable, and I’m sure it will improve with time.

At the end, we flipped the menu and realized we had only ordered from the front side. There are all sorts of entrees that were never available at the smaller locations. We’re glad to go back and tackle more next time.

Hellenic

10436 W Atlantic Blvd, Coral Springs, FL 33071

Mon: Closed

Tues – Sat: 12:00 P.M. – 10:00 P.M.

Sun: 12:00 P.M. – 4:00 P.M.

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Author Profile

Han Okcuoglu

Han Okcuoglu is a curious foodie, Turkish-American and resident of South Florida for over 35 years. He graduated from FAU with a degree in Information Systems Management. He also writes food reviews on various websites and social media groups. He loves to see new restaurants and mom and pop shops get the attention they deserve and flourish.